Sunday, February 1, 2015

A Good Start to the Year

Sending Gangster Hippie Sit Start (V7)
In attempt to hold myself accountable for 2015 goals, monthly updates will ensue. 

I’ll check January 2015 off as a success.  A success not simply in terms of hitting goals, but also in that I’ve enjoyed the process thus far.  That’s the point right?  Anyways, with no further ado, some updates:

Great progress has been made on my 34th birthday challenge. I sent 2 of the 7 V7s needed to complete the effort:  The Memorial Traverse and Gangster Hippie Sit Start.  The crux to this challenge will be finding time to get outside enough to project and send all these problems.  Given that I’m working a 9-5 M-F kinda gig along with other consulting projects, there literally aren’t very many daylight hours available.  Sure, one full session each weekend is a sure thing, but I’ll need more than that to get'r done.  Thus, I’ve been waking up early and bouldering at sunrise, which turns out, is absolutely amazing.  Quiet, perfect temps and a clear mind every session.  It's like bliss on demand.  Why isn't everyone doing this? 

Here's video of the business on Memorial Traverse (V7)


Keeping track of my progress on Birthday Challenge problems here.  "Not like anyone cares..."

This month’s work of art is a song.  Its not an original, but took enough effort to pick up and polish that it counts.  I grew up playing piano quite a bit - was even sorta good at it.  However, since Jr High, I’ve only dabbled at best, but have always wanted to pick it up again and translate some of the theory I’ve learned from guitar.  While I did used to play regularly, I did very little writing, improvisation or singing along with the piano when I was a kid. 

Anyways, the story behind this one is sorta cheeky.  Last month I was working out a version of Neil Young’s Helpless and was playing/singing it a lot (cause that’s what you do when you’re learning a song).  One day, Mom walks in and says “You’re not helpless sweetheart.  Have you thought about picking up a different song?”  Of course, I’m thinking, “I love Neil.  It’s a great three chord song.  What’s the problem?”  Then that afternoon Desperado, by The Eagles comes on the radio and I realize that its a perfect song for piano.  Plus, I’ve always identified with the lyrics - especially so lately.  So I start working on Desperado, which is probably even more of a cathartic angst anthem than Helpless.  Nice.

Note that I'm not learning these from sheet music. I'm just picking up the chords and writing piano that works for me.  Really a great way to learn your way around keys.    

I will probably be the only person in history to play Desperado wearing an Owltoberfest tank top.  Phil and Elijah are literally puking in their mouths right now.

I’ve always loved Hermann Hesse and recently found a copy of Narcissus and Goldmund that my Dad gifted years ago.  Started reading it at the beginning of the month - a truly great book.  All of Hesse’s works are beautiful expressions of the paradox that is the human condition. Narcissus and Goldmund shines his light directly on the struggle to balance devotion and focus with expression and experience.  Truth be told, I’m a bit behind, as I haven’t quite finished the read yet, but will do so in haste.  Demerits to me.  In my defense, Hesse is a little dense.  Will try something a bit lighter when I through.  

Thursday, January 1, 2015

2014 Recap

2014 was odd.  In many ways, this was a year of transition. I often felt that I was losing ground - that I was ineffective, lazy and lacking vision.  Perhaps this is true.  However, looking back on what was accomplished it seems I might have also unlocked potential and discovered new avenues for exploration.

With that, here’s a summary of what I got done:

Grew lots of food.  
I continued to cultivate the garden at my house in Eugene and enjoyed the benefits of the well established soil that I started working in the year prior.  In the end, I probably grew close to 80% of the produce that myself and my housemates consumed for the 8 months of the year that I was living in Eugene.

Jobless for the entire year.
While most folk wouldn’t call this accomplishment, I very much see it that way.  Its not that I wasn’t working, its that I was working on my own terms - for myself.  During 2014, I serviced 8 different consulting clients and generated enough income to live on.  Not bad if you ask me.  However, as the year ends I do find myself wanting to connect with a team and to move some even larger boulders in working life.  Consulting has been a nice retreat of sorts, but it feels like the time is right to return to a more traditional working life.  

Rode my bike kind of a lot.
The clear highlight here is the 1400 mile solo bike tour completed in October.  However, I also enjoyed hundreds of miles of riding (and drinking) during rides through the Willamette Valley and my 33rd birthday wine tasting and biking challenge.  A number of weekend tours were also had in the area.  Bike commuting was the norm for much of the year.  Additionally, 2014 brought some of my first real mountain biking experiences including the epic 21 mile Waldo Lake loop in a single day.  In the end I probably logged 4000 miles or so. 

Climbed a bit.  
I struggled to get outside and climb while living in Eugene.  The is not entirely my fault mind you - there’s not a ton of rock nearby, let alone dry rock for most of the year.  Whatever the case, I didn't do much climbing the first half of the year.  However, I’ve been climbing a ton since embarking on my tour and landing in Santa Barbara.  The quick stats/ticks:
- Visited 15 new bouldering areas climbed loads of new rock.
 - Sent some “hardish” boulder problems - The Tempest (V6), Pop, Drop and Lock (V6), Seven Year Plan (V6)
 - Sent some “hardish” sport routes - Oh Shit Take (7a), Slough of Despair (7a+)

In 2015 I’d like to capitalize on climbing momentum and see if I can’t get some truly hard (for me) stuff done.  However, I also want to challenge my mind a bit along the way.  

Here’s what I’m thinking:

7 V7+ boulder problems by the end of 1st quarter.
This will serve as my 34th birthday challenge.  Given that I’ve only climbed 2 problems that are this hard in my entire life, this will not be easy.  I’m hoping that getting some stuff done at this level will create a nice foundation for the even harder climbing I plan on doing later in the year.

Climb V9.
This will be a new PR for me if I can pull it off.

Redpoint 5.13.
I’ve sent loads of 5.12, including two 12d’s, so its time.  Period.

One bike tour every quarter (one of which has to be at least one week long).
I definitely will be biking this year, but do want to make sure that time is set aside for bike adventure and travel.  Touring is also REALLY good for my head, so this one is actually more therapy than fun.

One book every month.

I used to read pretty regularly, but over the past number of years this has slipped terribly.  Time to put an end to that. 

One work of art each month.
Doesn’t matter what the modality is, I just want to make sure that I’m being creative on regular basis.  Again, something that I used to be quite good at, but have let slip in recent years.  I say “work of art” because these all have to have a certain significance to them.  Like a quick doodle or simple recipe doesn't count.  Examples might include putting up a new route, hosting a top notch dinner party, writing a good song etc… 

Keep working.
I've had a few people mention that my goals didn't include anything for work.  There are a number of directions that work may lead this year and depending on which one pans out, I could be doing very different things.  I don't like ambiguous goals, so that's that.  I will say, this is going to be an exciting year professionally.  Good challenges galore.  

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Eugene to Santa Barbara: Lessons Learned

On August, 25th, I pedaled down the road with a ton of crap strapped to my bike.  My plan was fairly simple.  I wanted to travel by bike between Eugene and Santa Barbara, climb rocks as much as possible, connect with old friends and continue to make an honest living while on the road.  While I used to spend loads of time consuming and creating “I did this. I did that” blog posts for trips like this, more recently, I’ve found myself incredibly bored by this sort of writing.  Furthermore, given my goal of continuing to work while on the road, there literally wasn’t time to document all the thoughts and experiences.  Regular Instagram postings seemed like a much more appropriate way to keep folks apprised of my current location and experiences. 

However, the past 45 days were most definitely very rich and full.  In lieu of telling the whole story, I’ve compiled a list of “Lessons Learned”.  After all, this is almost always the most interesting stuff that comes out of these sorts of experiences.  Below you’ll find a variety of  some off the most relevant thoughts/lessons in no particular order.  Few of these are revolutionary in terms of ideas, but the potency of living them in a such a raw visceral fashion alone on the road was a very powerful experience. 

We need people, but perhaps not in the way you think.  


Traveling alone is definitely a lesson is self sufficiency, and I’ve always been quite comfortable dealing with things on my own.  The truth is, we are all much more capable than we give ourselves credit for.  When problems arose on the road, it wasn’t always easy, but I figured out how to handle them.  No big deal.  Sure there were more than a few moments (some of them quite extended) that I yearned for friends to help me through the hard times, but with a bit more investigation I would often realize that the yearning for “other” was really just one way of me trying to “escape” the hard moment or to get away from something I didn’t want to feel.  What’s always fascinated me though is the affect others have on the good times - the peaks along the way.  The classic example being a sunset.  A sunset is a beautiful thing, but sharing that beauty with someone else expands it in so many ways.  In the end I truly missed my friends and family the most during the good times.  There’s so many moments I wish we could have shared.  

Highs and lows make for a better ride.  


My route took me over many mountain passes so I got to enjoy a whole lot of up and down on the bike.  Along the way folks would ask “How’s the ride been?”  My usual response was, “There’s been a lot of ups and downs.”  Of course, I meant this literally and figuratively and most people picked up on the humor.  As you might have guessed, there were many days that I hated the mountains and dreamed of flat open roads.  Oddly enough, every time the hills opened up into the flats, boredom and fatigue almost immediately set in.  Sure, the the mountains were most definitely harder riding, but it was more engaging.  The burning in my legs, the sweat dripping from my nose during climbs and the sound of the cool wind rushing past on descents left me feeling so alive.  The safe, easy and monotonous rides through the flats left me with little more than a sore ass from sitting in the same position for hours on end. 

Again, this is really just a metaphor for life as a whole.  Its so easy to choose the seemingly “easy path” of the flats.  We homogenize our experience by dulling out the rough edges.  By protecting ourselves from potential pain, we never feel any bliss.  Choose the hard roads.  Climb the hills.  Savor the entire experience.  

“What have I gotten myself into?”  “Why am I doing this?”


A mentor of mine once told me a story about a phenomenon he observed while leading student trips during his decades of work as a teacher.   It had nothing to do with the activity, location or tasks at hand.  Rather the constant was the timing in terms of the trips total length.  Without fail just about everyone involved (students, teachers, parents) would “hit the wall” at two points during the experience:  seven to ten days out and just under the halfway there.  His rational for this theme makes sense to me and I’ve experienced these points in all my travels and new experiences in life. 

Seven to ten days into something new is the point where reality sets in - “What have I gotten myself into?”  The fun and excitement of whatever the new activity/place is wears off and the day to day struggle of the experience comes front and center.  I hit this wall leaving Crater Lake.  After making a wrong turn and bombing down hill 25 miles in the wrong direction, I had to slog through a hot southern Oregon Valley and up and over a steep pass to get back on course.  My bad ankle had been nagging since the trip started and the pain was only getting worse.  At this point, every pedal stroke shot pain up my leg, which not only was unpleasant, but significantly decreased my output.  Hills were not fun.  My internal dialogue for most of the afternoon was something like “I can’t do this.  My leg can’t handle it.  Its only going to get worse.”  I tried to stop the negative self talk, but that only made it worse.  Eventually, out of pure exhaustion, I just gave into it and let my mind do its thing.  Simply listening to the pain, it dawned on me that a seat adjustment might improve the situation.  Dropping the saddle just a few centimeters allowed my legs to spin without pushing the range of motion in the ankle.  Almost immediately, the pain went away.  Reinvigorated, I climbed the pass with ease and coasted down the other side to a beautiful southern Oregon Lake.

Just under halfway into something new, our endurance really gets tested - “Why am I doing this?”  The experience has already taken its toll on us (good and bad), but the end is nowhere near.  It is a very vulnerable place and I’ve seen myself and others face some serious stuff.  In Truckee I fell deep into this hole.  After riding through wind and smoke on dicey highways for over a week, I rolled into town mentally and physically exhausted.  Setting up camp for a few days to climb and work, I began to feel painfully lonely.  I couldn’t help but second guess my decision to even go on this trip and the many sacrifices made in the process.  I missed my home, my routine, my friends and my ex girlfriend.  Oh god, how I missed my ex girlfriend.  This sort of crippling loneliness has derailed many experiences for plenty of folks.  A few intense phone calls with some family and friends led me out of the darkness.  Their reminders of what I was doing and why I was doing it helped refocus me on the work at hand.  I cranked through some work, found some incredible boulder fields and pedaled down the west coast of Lake Tahoe with fresh legs and an oddly open heart.  

“Its better to regret something you did, than something you didn’t do.”


This is a great lyric from a Red Hot Chili Peppers song that has stuck with me ever since I first heard it.  Days before leaving on my trip, a friend asked me what I was most looking forward to.  I told her that I couldn’t wait to make that first unplanned turn down a random road and stumble upon something brilliant.  Along the way, I made a conscious effort to try and choose the less traveled path and to give myself the space to explore the side roads that popped up along the way.  Of course there were plenty of excursions that didn’t work out as planned, and I dare say, were regretful, but they all richened the experience.  On the way to Crater Lake I jumped on a dirt road to cut some miles and get off the busy highway.  Maps showed this road leading across directly where I wanted to go.  It was hard riding in sand and dirt that had my bike fish tailing quite a bit, but hey, why not right?  After seven miles and over an hour of exploration, I expected to hit the highway.  Instead, I rolled down a steep hill into a washed out trail that was now an impassable swamp.  I couldn’t have hiked to the highway very easily, let alone get my bike across so backtracking the seven miles was the only option.  Three hours later I was back to slogging down the highway with very little water and some gassed legs.  Bad day right?  Well, sure, but looking back, I can’t help but smile.  It was actually kind of fun.  

We don’t buy products and services.  We buy experiences.  


I’m fascinated by consumer psychology, so I spend a good deal of time observing people’s purchasing patterns and the way businesses market their products and services to earn those purchases.  Living on the road, maintaining a tight budget I also was keenly aware of my own purchase decisions.  Every choice I made from food to shelter to toiletries to gear often had nothing to do with the specific product/service itself and everything to do with how it would make me feel, or the experience it provided.  It’s easy to understand this phenomena thinking in terms of something like a hotel room or a massage, but it trickles down into everything we buy.  Smart companies get this and focus their efforts on not simply developing a strong offering, but branding the offering such that consumers/customers are drawn to it because of the experience it affords.  While in Bend, I visited a good friend who’s the VP of Operations at Picky Bars, a company who is nailing this right now.  They make energy bars that use good ingredients, are nutritionally balanced, taste good and sold at a reasonable price point.  Guess what?  There’s a lot of energy bars out there that fit this bill.  So why are they experiencing so much success?  Its because they’re not selling energy bars (they are, but you know what I mean), they are selling an idea, a feeling, and inspiration.  Their products and every stream of messaging relating to them promotes adventure, happiness and embracing challenging experience.  This is what their customers are buying.  In the few seconds when they pull a handful off the shelf or tear open the wrapper, they remind themselves that they are an active, adventurous, and happy person.  That’s why they’re choosing a Picky Bar rather than something else.  

Gas is expensive.


Eugene, OR is one of the epicenters of alternative transportation advocacy and bike culture, so naturally I’ve been exposed to loads of information about the benefits of riding bicycles and its all right on.  Bikes are great.  We all should ride bikes more.  Period.  That being said, the benefits or bike riding only extend so far.  Again, without a doubt, bike ownership is less expensive than car ownership (not just for us, but for the planet).  However, there’s parts of this equation that are not as conclusive as one might think.  Loads of folks congratulate bike commuters on all the gas savings they must experience.  “It must be so nice to not spend hundreds of dollars each month on gasoline!”  Sure, it is, but I’ve got a secret for you.  We do spend money on fuel.  Calories fuel bike transpiration, and calories are not free.  This is not quite as apparent when we think in terms of a couple miles of commuting here and there, but once one begins to log hundreds of miles each week on a tour, the calorie requirements and their expense are obvious. 

A causal cyclist (commuter or tourist) burns approximately 400 calories every 10 miles pedaled.  Of course this number goes up and down depending on the terrain and amount of gear being hauled, but lets use this for a quick calculation.  Again, all things being equal, the sorts of calories consumed by most folks on bikes (fruit, granola, bars, trail mix etc) cost between $.50 and $1.00 per 100 calories.  So 10 miles of riding requires $2.00 - $4.00 of calories.  Note:  We’re not even factoring water into this equation. 

Your average car gets between 20 and 30 miles per gallon of gasoline.  Gasoline costs about $4.50 per gallon in most spots right now.  So 10 miles of driving requires $1.50 -  $2.25 in gasoline.

Looking at these numbers, it seems to me, that on average, the fuel required for cycling is actually a bit more expensive than the gasoline required for vehicles.  Its a fascinating thing to be burning an additional 3000 calories a day when cycling 70-80 miles.  You have to consume a ton of food and water.  Some days I’d be able to plan ahead and make loads of food at camp, but other times I’d find myself rolling into a gas station in the middle of nowhere, grabbing a handful of bars, a coffee and a big bottle of water.  Swiping my card for $11.95 or whatever it would end up being, I couldn’t help but laugh watching all the “normal” people filling up their respective tanks outside.

You can always love more.  


Living on the road alone in my head was very much a retreat.  I’m not sure what I was looking for out there, but in the end this may be the most golden nugget of obvious “no duh” truth gained along the way.  Life is a fleeting thing.  None of us spend very much time on this planet and we really only get to enjoy a fraction of those moments with the people that matter most.  Circumstances change, accidents happen and age takes it toll on us.  Its so important to honor the time we have and remind ourselves how much we matter to each other. 

The day to day realities of life can easily smother our hearts.  It is far simpler to close it off and just keep going.  Ever since I mangled my leg five years ago, I’ve taken a “head down and work” approach to life.  Sure, there’s aspects to this that have helped me grow and thrive, but in the process, I’ve often neglected an essential part of myself.  Honestly, It has felt like I haven’t had time for feelings, but after 45 days free and alone on the road, its not painfully obvious how much of a cop out that is.  Feeling things is often really scary, but if there’s one fear to lean into in this life, it is this one. 

Let yourself love. 

Ideas are fun, but action is necessary.  


How often do we hear, say and think “I’d love to do [x]”, I wish I could do [y]” or “[z] is such a good idea”?  Many of us spend far too much time dreaming and thinking about cool stuff.  Don’t get me wrong here, the idea stage of anything is incredibly important.  Giving ourselves the space to ideate, analyze and plan can help improve many experiences, but nothing happens until we actually do something.  Taking action is the essential step in creation that is often missed or avoided. 

Going on a long bike tour is actually pretty simple.  You pack your things and start pedaling.  Sure, there’s other sacrifices that are necessary to facilitate this, but that’s simply a matter of prioritization and organization.  I chose to keep working on the road, so hauled a laptop and took additional rest days to attend to my responsibilities.  Other things couldn’t come with me. My relationship, garden, home and beautiful community were staying in Eugene.  This was not an easy decision to make by any standard, but in the end, all it took was pushing off and beginning to pedal. 

Whatever it is that you’re thinking about, whatever curiosity continues to circle back in your head, consider taking action and seeing where it leads.  Its the only way to make it real. 

Endurance is a mental discipline.


I’ve never been a professional athlete, but have spent the past two decades very focused on physical activity.  While I’ve gotten pretty good at a few things, none of them are endurance oriented.  I’m good at short blasts of high output - the rabbit not the tortoise.  So embarking on a 1400 mile bike tour was an interesting test.  Even after training up fairly systematically, spending increasing amounts of time in the saddle and strengthening all the requisite parts of my body for the many miles ahead, there was a part of me that was very unsure how I would fare traveling such a distance on a bicycle. 

On the day of departure, my buddy gave me a hug and said something like, “Dude, you’ve got this.  You’re fit and strong.  Your body will do fine.  This is going to be a mental battle.  Focus on that.”  These words echoed in my head for the next 1400 miles and through all the other things that happened along the way. 

It is fascinating the way our bodies respond to our mental state.  Understand that while there were plenty of hard days on the bike with loads of elevation gain, very little of this was pushing me near my physical limits.  This wasn’t a race.  Most of the spinning was fairly causal.  What’s interesting is that the most painful moments, the times when it was most difficult to keep going, had little correlation to the difficulty of the riding.  Some of the steepest hills on the longest days felt easy and some of the best downhills in beautiful places were miserably hard.  When my mind wandered down darker paths and fears from all corners of life would creep into consciousness, the miles got hard.  When I was open and exciting about the potential ahead, the miles were blissful. 

Get your head right and you can endure just about anything. 

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Hypertrophy Part 2

Andy locking off on the crux crimp of Monsters in the Maze 5.12b
at Green Dome in Santa Barbara, CA
Watch a group of people with decent technique working a hard boulder problem and you’ll probably notice one of the following things is the reason for their failure:
  1. Holds are too small/slopey (hands/fingers aren’t strong enough)
  2. Holds are too far apart (don’t have enough lock off strength)
  3. Feet keep coming off  (core strength and/or foot placement precision is lacking)
The second part of the hypertrophy block targets these weaknesses through a focus on exercises that build strength (muscle and connective tissue mass) in appropriate parts of the body. 

Good to boulder a bit each workout and then use an appropriate combination of the other exercises described in rotation.  I tend to do Repeaters, Lock Offs and Ab Swings in one and Campusing in the other.  The most important thing is to spend some time doing them all regularly.  The combinations are less important.  Train Hypertrophy every other day depending on recovery needs. 

Warm up:

Do the warm up described in Hypertrophy Part 1.

Find a boulder problem that is hard, but doable in a few goes and then project it for the next 30-60 minutes as necessary.  The goal here is to get the body very warmed up for hard training to follow while improving projecting tactics and efficiency.  

The good folks at Beastmaker can explain the specifics, but will say that doing these methodically is easily one of the best ways to increase finger strength.  I generally do one set of each major hand position that is applicable/realistic given my fitness.  This always includes a warm up 4 finger false crimp (see campusing below) followed by full effort on  front 2 finger, mid 2 finger, back 2 finger, crimp, and sloper and when time and fitness allows some one arm work on good holds and/or mono combinations.   A note on pockets:  GO SLOW.  If 2 finger positions feel “tweaky” start with 3 finger positions and work up.  Those that patiently train pockets (by patient I mean months, not weeks) develop finger strength of mutant proportions. 

Generally, all of these hand positions can be worked effectively with the aid of a pulley when necessary.  However, when no pulley is available, intelligent staggered hand positions can be a nice way to “take weight off”  For example, say you can’t really integrate back 2 finger training into your routine (most can’t).  Instead of getting injured trying WAY too hard with both hands hanging back 2 finger pockets, back one hand off to a back 3 finger pocket and switch the stagger back and forth each rep of the set.  Or just do a back 3 finger set in lieu of back 2 finger for a while.  One finger can make a HUGE difference. 

Lock offs:
As the name implies, these help develop lock off strength.  Far more effective than pull ups or rows, lock offs create strength in the most helpful part of the pull motion.  Plus they train  feet, legs, and abs to support the movement.  Some may be surprised at how pumped their toes get dong lock off training.   While any type of hold will work for these exercises, I like to focus on pinches as this is the one hand position that is often hard to train on fingerboards. 

The simplest method is to grab a decent hold on a vertical to gently overhanging wall.  Then reach as far possible with the free hand, hiking feet up as high as necessary (preferably in a front stepped position).  Hold the locked off position for as long as possible.   Do 3-4 sets with each arm. 

A variation on the theme can be achieved on a systems board (moderate route will work too).  Climb up and down the board on good holds, but each movement hover the lead hand just over the next hold for five seconds before hanging it.  The end result is a series of lock offs up and down the board.   Each set should result in failure after 10-25 hand movements.  Do 3-4 sets. 

Ab Swings:
Ab swings strengthen muscles that keep feet light, precise and on the on the wall when climbing on steeper terrain - mainly a function of the core.   For ab swings find a large jug in a roof where its easy to keep feet off the floor. The first variation is to swing feet up to a hold towards the end of reach in front, bicycle the hold and catch the swing for a brief moment.  Then release allowing legs to swing back towards the ground.  Immediately swing legs back up towards the foothold bicycling the hold in the other direction  (keep things balanced) and repeat in reps until failure.  For the second variation swing feet to the side catching a foothold in the same fashion and repeating to the other side in subsequent reps until failure.  Do a a set or two of each of these.  This is also a good time to incorporate front levers and their variations.

Again, deferring to the Brits on this one.  Listen to Ben Moon.  He’s a strong dude.  Campusing takes a bit of time to work up to, but for those that can get comfortable on a board, especially a well constructed board (unlike the one at The Crux in Eugene), it often becomes HIGHLY addictive.  Friends of mine have been known to ignore “real” climbing for entire seasons because they get so obsessed with projects on the campus board.

Depending on the difficulty of hand movement and/or the amount of reps done each set, campusing can either be used for hypertrophy or maximum recruitment.  During the hypertrophy phase I generally do a few sets of ladders, bumps and touches with a focus on volume on moderate moves.  Here’s an example:

Again in the name of balance, remember to intentionally alternate which hand leads on movements.  I generally do sets in pairs, first leading with my right and then with my left.

Warmup hangs (a few sets of 3-5 sec hangs on rungs)
Big holds 1-4-6-9-9-6-4-1
Big holds 1-4-6-9-9-6-4-1
Med holds 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1
Med holds 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1

Big holds 1-4-5-4-5 ... 4-5 (5-8 bumps total)
Big holds 1-4-5-4-5 ... 4-5 (5-8 bumps total)
Small holds 1-3-4-3-4 ... 3-4 (5-8 bumps total)
Small holds 1-3-4-3-4 ... 3-4 (5-8 bumps total)

Big holds 1-5-1-5 ... 1-5 (8-12 touches total)
Big holds 1-5-1-5 ... 1-5 (8-12 touches total)

Shoulder Prehab:
Do the exercises described in Hypertrophy Part 1