If Only Life was a Steep Rock Face

Life’s rhythm never ceases to entertain. Here I am bound to a cane with every step accompanied by resonating pain and the reminder that I’ve got a long way to go.... and I’m not even sure where I’m going. Of course my back, hips and knees feel like they’ve aged 30 years as well. What was once a fairly open and free moving system now creaks, aches, and twinges with the simplest of movements. 


But when I throw on climbing shoes, tie in on lead and start up a steep route I blow my fucking mind. A few weeks back, Justin and I decided to make a quick trip to Vegas. Of course we arrived during the peak of a massive heat wave. Yes, it was 100 degrees in Red Rocks. The strip was like 115 I think. So after cross crutching up the approach trail and fighting off a puke from our antics the night before I arrive at the Cannibal Crag. I catch my breath and manage to warm up by onsighting Caustic Cock 5.11b (top rope because of bad fall potential) and then put in good burns on Fuck This Sport 5.12b. Two days later we return and I second go redpoint Maneater 5.12a. Then I hobble out of the crag and we drive home.

Back home, the crew is very psyched Mr. Lees. Everyone’s been projecting and to be honest, I’ve felt a little left out. So a few Saturdays ago I jumped on Hardboiled 5.13b to see what all the hype was about. My performance that first day was anything but inspiring. Couldn’t do more than a few moves, and aided past half the clips, but the routes quality was VERY apparent, nonetheless. So last weekend I find myself on Phil Requist’s devil spawn of a route. Which reminds me, Hardboiled isn’t Chips Ahoy at the Tor. Two finger campusing ain’t gonna get you up this thing. Like many have said, this is a full body workout and you gotta use your feet. Nonetheless, second go of the day I manage to bolt to bolt using only the fixed draws. This isn’t usually something to brag about, but when your hardest redpoint to date is 5.12c, and you have to crawl to the bathroom in the morning, cranking out those cruxes and linking those tricky sections feels REALLY fucking good.

Andre pulling hard on The Sea of Love 5.12b

Better still, my effort was only part of an unusually successful day for the team. After months of effort and the nagging pain of his own ankle injury, Elijah harnessed his inner Crankenfrank and one falled Buddhist Palm 5.13d. A feat, I’m told, only Phil has achieved... once. And he earned it. Then Andre ties into The Sea of Love 5.12b and treats us to one hell of an exciting redpoint. Ninja screams, a fantastic freedom swing, and knee buckling clip of the chains earned her the hardest female redpoint in Santa Maria climbing history. This is the shit that makes all the hard days worth the effort. So much fun.

Elijah getting started up Buddhist Palm 5.13d

Now, an update on some past posts.

So to fund the well placed pokes of Erik Smith, I’ve been cooking meals for his family. This blog is supposed to touch on food every once in while. I mean what kind of asshole would think that people give a shit about his selfish climbing pursuits? So I thought I’d share some of the meals that they’ve been enjoying.

Sole Plaki Style; Quinoa Pilaf; Traditional Dandelion Greens
Plaki style is a pretty broad term, but I know it as a mild fish baked in a light tomato, onion and herb sauce. The mint and dill being the most distinct difference from other tomato sauces. I’ve substituted quinoa for the more traditional rice or couscous in the pilaf and the greens are prepared in the simple Greek style - boiled and then drizzled with lemon and olive oil.

Chicken, Lentil and Summer Squash Mulligatawny Stew; Black Mustard Seed Kale
A nice mellow Indian stew spiced with cumin, coriander, bay leaf, ginger, lime and cilantro. I’ve cooked some chicken liver into the stock to give it a real nice earthy flavor and nutritional boost. Black Mustard Seed Kale may be my favorite way to serve this green.

Coriander Mint Beet Cakes; Soubise; Curried Cauliflower Soup
The beet cakes are bound with chickpea flour and are vegan. Serve warm with a dollop of warm soubise on each. The soup has got some heat so swirl in a little yogurt to cool it off if necessary.


Also, I weighed myself last week, and yes, as suspected, I’ve gotten lighter. During my time on crutches I fluctuated between 175 and 180. Last week the scale read 167. How? Home cooked plant based meals, more aerobic exercise and yoga on top of the usual. And 1-5-8 wasn’t a fluke. Here’s video of me repeating the movement on my weak side the following Thursday.